The Hair Follicle

Written by Pratham Dalwadi

Last updated November 24, 2025
15 Revisions

The hair follicle is a specialised epidermal structure that extends into the dermis of the skin and produces hair.

It functions as a small, self-renewing organ capable of independent growth and regeneration.

In this article, we will discuss the hair follicle’s macroscopic and microscopic anatomy, surrounding structures and the hair growth cycle.

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Macroscopic Anatomy

Hair follicles are downward extensions of the epidermis that project into the underlying dermis. Each follicle gives rise to a strand of hair – which grows from its base and extends towards the skin surface.

The visible portion of the hair that emerges above the epidermis is the shaft, while the portion embedded within the skin is known as the root. The root expands distally into the hair bulb, which surrounds a vascular structure called the dermal papilla (provides the hair bulb with oxygen and nutrients). Just above the bulb, the follicle narrows to form the isthmus.

The hair shaft itself is composed of three concentric layers of keratinised cells (dead epidermal cells that have replaced their internal structures with the protein keratin). From innermost to outermost, these layers are:

  • Medulla – a central core of loosely arranged cells, often absent in fine hair.
  • Cortex – the thickest layer, rich in keratin filaments and pigment granules that determine hair strength and colour.
  • Cuticle – a thin, protective outer layer of overlapping keratin scales that interlock with the inner root sheath.

Fig 1
Structure of the hair follicle and hair shaft.

Microscopic Structure

Histologically, the hair follicle is arranged into several concentric layers that support and protect the developing hair shaft.

From innermost to outermost, these include:

  • Inner root sheath – composed of three layers: Henle’s layer, Huxley’s layer and the outer cuticle. It closely surrounds the hair shaft, guiding it upwards through the follicle before disintegrating near the isthmus.
  • Outer root sheath – a downward continuation of the epidermis made up of living keratinocytes. It provides structural support and houses stem cells capable of regenerating after injury.
  • Glassy membrane – a thickened basement membrane separating the follicular epithelium (hair matrix and inner and outer root sheaths) from surrounding connective tissue.
  • Connective-tissue sheath – a fibrous outer layer, rich in collagen and elastic fibres that anchors the follicle to the dermis.

At the base of the follicle lies the hair matrix, containing rapidly dividing matrix cells and pigment-producing melanocytes. Matrix cells differentiate into the three layers of the hair shaft and the three layers of the inner root sheath. Melanocytes transfer melanin granules to the developing hair cells to provide colour.

Fig 2
Microscopic structure of the hair follicle

Associated Structures of the Hair Follicle

The function of the hair follicle depends on several surrounding supporting structures that contribute to movement, lubrication, sensation and nourishment:

  • Arrector pili muscle – a small band of smooth muscle that attaches to the follicle at an oblique angle. When it contracts, the hair shaft becomes more erect, producing goosebumps as part of a thermoregulatory response. Contraction of this muscle also assists in expelling sebum from the follicle.
  • Sebaceous gland – a lobulated gland that releases a lipid-rich substance called sebum into the follicular canal. Sebum drains into the canal just above the point where the arrector pili muscle inserts, lubricating both the hair and surrounding skin. Together, the hair follicle and sebaceous gland form the pilosebaceous unit.
  • Innervation – dense networks of sensory nerve endings encircle the follicle, forming part of the tactile apparatus of the skin. Sympathetic nerve fibres supply the arrector pili muscles and sebaceous glands, allowing autonomic control of their activity.
  • Blood supply – the dermal papilla at the follicle base receives a fine capillary network from the deep dermal plexus. It delivers oxygen and nutrients essential for the active growth phase of the hair cycle.

Hair Growth Cycle

Hair follicles progress through repeated, asynchronous cycles of growth and rest. Each phase involves distinct cellular and structural changes within the follicle:

Phase Duration (scalp) Key features
Anagen (growth) 2-6 years Rapid proliferation of matrix cells, active keratinisation and elongation of the hair shaft.
Catagen (regression) 2-3 weeks Apoptosis of the lower follicle and detachment of the bulb from the dermal papilla.
Telogen (rest) ~ 3 months A quiescent phase in which the follicle is inactive and the club hair remains anchored near the surface.
Exogen (shedding/return to anagen) The old hair is released as a new anagen phase begins

Around 85–90% of scalp follicles are in anagen at any one time, while non-scalp follicles have shorter cycles.

Fig 3
The hair growth cycle.

Clinical Relevance

Androgenetic Alopecia

Androgenetic alopecia (male pattern hair loss) occurs when follicles in the frontal and vertex scalp become sensitive to dihydrotestosterone (DHT). This causes progressive miniaturisation, with a smaller dermal papilla and fewer active matrix cells in the hair bulb.

With each hair cycle, the follicle produces a thinner, shorter hair shaft and the anagen phase becomes shorter. Follicles remain present but functionally dormant, providing the rationale for treatment with finasteride and topical minoxidil, which aim to prolong anagen and support papilla signalling.

Surgical treatments, such as follicular unit transplantation (FUT) and follicular unit excision (FUE), depend on preserving the entire follicular unit. Injury to the bulb or outer root sheath during harvesting reduces graft survival, so careful handling and alignment with natural follicle angulation are essential.

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